Bay Islands, Honduras

Long before anyone coined the term eco-resort or slapped the adventure travel label on any vacation that required a passport, divers were trekking to the Bay Islands of Honduras. For us, it was all about great diving at bargain prices. Who knew Roatan, Guanaja, Utila and Cayos Cochinos were in the vanguard of a travel marketing trend?

Many destinations claim eco-adventure status, but the Bay Islands of Honduras are the real thing. With rustic all-inclusive bungalow resorts (and a few hotel-style ones, too) set on quiet, isolated beaches and bays, these islands offer more than just access to diverse Caribbean diving. They're an exotic travel experience that's plenty gringo-safe and a bargain to boot. It's like summer dive camp—only here there are no curfews, no counselors, and there's a cash bar. Imagine the possibilities.

Roatan

The largest and most developed of the Bay Islands, Roatan is still a pleasantly quiet Caribbean backwater where an evening's entertainment may revolve around the resort bar and your very own tales of diving adventure. The island's small international airport receives direct flights from U.S. cities and commuter flights from the Honduran mainland, so the dive resorts absorb the greatest number of visitors to the Bay Islands. Cruise ships also call on the island at the settlement of Coxen Hole, and there are internet cafes now. But tucked away at your resort, surrounded by jungle and overlooking the water, you might never know they were there. In short, Roatan offers the greatest convenience in the Bay Islands, but without sacrificing the exotic flavor that makes the Bay Islands so appealing.

Dive Briefing: The fringing reef along the north shore starts in as little as 20 feet of water, but the real attraction is the wall that drops from 40 feet to well over 130. Cracked with numerous sand channels, valleys and swim-throughs, it shelters a diverse array of critters including lobster and moray eels. On the south side, the drop-off starts in 25 feet of water and is close enough to shore dive. Some resorts even make tanks available for unlimited shore diving excursions.

Some of the most popular dive sites are found on the current-swept western tip of the island, where a marine park prohibits spearfishing and lobstering, and big fish like grouper are abundant. Your Roatan dive operator may also offer day trips to the remote East End, the pristine reefs off Barbareta or to the Cayos Cochinos.

Guanaja

This dagger-shaped ridge of mountainous peaks complete with heavy jungle growth and cascading waterfalls is the second largest of the Bay Islands, yet one of the least populated. There are no roads on the island, and the handful of dive resorts, which range from hillside bungalows to a Spanish-style villa, are spaced out around the island and connected only by water taxi.

Dive Briefing: Guanaja's coral formations are the most dramatic in the Bay Islands. Along the north shore, shallow reefs begin in 20 feet of water, then slope steeply down to 60 to 80 feet. Off the south shore, the wall starts in 40 feet of water, then drops almost vertically to 120 feet and a narrow shelf before dropping off again into the deep. The signature wreck dive of Guanaja, the Jado Trader, is also found off this shore.

A channel cut through the island allows easy access to either side so you can always find a lee to dive in. Operators tend to stick to their side but are willing to transit the channel to suit the weather or customer demands.

Utila

Utila is blessed with some of the richest marine life and diving in the Bay Islands, from tiny macro critters to lumbering whale sharks; from gorgeous shallow reefs to deep walls and ocean pinnacles. The island is literally surrounded with great diving on all sides.

This diversity and the abundance of marine life make the island a favorite among serious underwater photographers and fish-watchers. Bring a snorkel if you dive here from May through September, the peak whale shark season.

Dive Briefing: Utila has the most diving options, with fringing reefs and walls on the north and south shores, a string of small cays and submerged seamounts. Reefs along the southern shore start in 15 to 20 feet of water then gradually slope away to 200 feet, with mini-walls from 40 to 80 feet. Along the north shore, the platform reef falls steeply off the continental shelf, dropping from 25 feet to more than 1,000. The dome-shaped seamounts rise to within 45 feet of the surface and attract pelagics like jacks, sharks and sea turtles.

Cayos Cochinos

One of diving's best-kept secrets, the Cayos Cochinos are a cluster of six small islands and a handful of sandy cays all tucked inside a national biological reserve. Live-aboards explore the area for a few days each trip, and day boats visit from Roatan and Guanaja, but if you really want to experience the full diversity of the diving here you have only one choice. A single, rustic dive lodge, Plantation Beach Resort, was grandfathered into the reserve, and other than a few private homes, a biological research station and a small Garífuna fishing village, there's not much else.

Dive Briefing: Fringing reefs start in as little as five feet of water, and there are classic vertical walls from 20 to 100 feet. The most explosive diving is on the seamounts, where tiny tropicals mix it up with wandering pelagics. Photographers-consider diving with two cameras here, one macro and one wide-angle, because you never know what you'll see from day to day or dive to dive.

Bay Islands Travel Savvy

If the Bay Islands sound a little too good to be true, well, there are a few catches.

Getting There: Getting to the Bay Islands has always been the biggest drawback, often requiring layovers on the mainland. TACA Airlines flies direct to Roatan from Miami, New Orleans and Houston once each week.

American, Continental and TACA offer daily service to the mainland cities of Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula from U.S. cities. From there, the small carriers Isleña and Sosa fly twin-engine propeller planes to the coastal town of La Ceiba and all the Bay Islands except the Cayos Cochinos, which are accessible only by boat from La Ceiba. Plantation Beach Resort makes regular boat runs to La Ceiba to drop off and pick up guests.

Getting Your Bags There: The talk over welcome cocktails is likely to include a few exasperated stories of delayed luggage. The reason: Each change to a smaller plane reduces the amount of cargo and luggage that can go on. While most delayed luggage will be delivered to your resort in a day or two, these commonsense tips can help prepare you for luggageless days.

Pack light. The rule of thumb "bring half the clothes you think you need" is a good one. The less luggage you have, the less likely it will be delayed.
Carry on. You're allowed 20 pounds of carry-on luggage-use it wisely. Include a toothbrush, change of clothes, prescriptions and personal dive gear like your mask and computer. Some dive operators will even rent you gear for free if your luggage is delayed.
Beware peak season. March, April, July, August and major holidays are the busiest times. Crowded flights mean a greater chance of delayed baggage.
My luggage is delayed! Now what? Have fun anyway. "You came to enjoy yourself, so get the best rental gear you can and dive." And let the resort handle the details. They know who to call, they speak the language and can arrange to have your luggage delivered when it does arrive.

Flying insects: The islands are home to the ubiquitous sand fly. You won't see them, but their bites swell into tiny red welts that itch like crazy for days. A less common, but more serious threat are mosquitoes, which can transmit malaria. Solution: Use insect repellent with at least a 30 percent DEET concentration. Bugs are at their worst in sandy areas, at dusk and at dawn. Long sleeves and pants also help prevent bites. Topical antihistamine solutions are the best way to stop the itch.

Air-conditioning: Most bungalow and lodge-style resorts do not have air-conditioning, and rely instead on ocean breezes or ceiling fans for cooling. If you can't live without AC, be sure to request it.

Documents: Passports are required. However, U.S. citizens do not need to worry about visas.

Language: While Spanish is the language of the mainland, English is preferred in the Bay Islands.

Money Matters: The Honduran lempira (valued at press time at 14.7 lempiras to one U.S. dollar) is the official currency, but dollars are readily accepted throughout the islands. Credit cards are widely accepted by resorts and dive shops.

Water Conditions: Expect water temperatures in the low 80Fs in summer and high 70Fs in winter. Although visibility can peak at 100 feet or more, expect an average of 80 feet, less when storms or plankton cloud the water.

Weather: Expect daytime highs in the mid-80Fs, cooling at night to the mid-60Fs year-round. The rainy season (October and November are the wettest months) brings frequent brief rainstorms, but you will seldom miss dives due to rain.

Food and Water: Food prepared at dive resorts is safe, and most treat or filter their tap water. To be sure, ask before drinking, and stick to bottled water or carbonated beverages if you have any doubt. For additional health recommendations, visit the Centers for Disease Control travel site at www.cdc.gov/travel. You can also request information via fax by calling (888) 232-3299.

Electricity: 110 volts/60 cycles, often generated by your resort.

Just In Case: There is a recompression chamber on Roatan.

Phone: 630-941-0355 · FAX 630-359-4024
e-mail: lisa@changeofscene.com